Short answer
What a gold parcel pays comes down to three measured facts: the weight of each piece, its confirmed purity, and the market rate on the day. None of those three are yours to change. What is yours to change is how much of your gold actually reaches the scale, whether the pieces worth more intact than melted get spotted before anyone melts them, and whether anything is damaged or devalued on the way there. Those are the nine things below, in rough order of how much money each one moves.
The nine things, in order of how much they move the figure
- Send it all in one parcel. Every gram counts towards the same offer and the label costs you nothing, so there is no reason to hold half of it back for a second go.
- Do not clean, polish, dip or repair anything. On antique silver and on coins this is where real money is lost, and it cannot be undone afterwards.
- Do not throw away the broken, single or unattractive pieces. Refining does not care what a piece looks like.
- Do not sort by carat, and do not test it yourself. Filing and acid tests mark the piece permanently and settle nothing the XRF assay will not settle for free.
- Include the categories people forget. Dental gold, cufflinks, pin backs, tie clips, watch cases, spectacle frames and the backs of brooches.
- Say what you know. Hallmarks, boxes, papers, maker names and where a piece came from all change how it is assessed.
- Hold back anything that may be worth more intact. Signed designer jewellery, named medals, rare-date coins and good antique pieces belong in a different market.
- Know what is not paid as gold. Stones, base-metal clasps, watch movements and filler in hollow pieces are weight you will not be paid for.
- Get the figure in writing before you decide. Weight, purity and rate shown separately, so the offer can actually be compared with another one.
Weight and carat do almost all the work
Two numbers decide most of the offer. The first is weight, taken on calibrated scales to a hundredth of a gram. The second is carat, which is simply how much of the alloy is gold: 9ct is 37.5 per cent, 14ct is 58.5 per cent, 18ct is 75 per cent, 22ct is 91.6 per cent. Multiply the two and you have the fine-gold content, which is what an offer is built from.
Sellers often assume carat matters more than it does. Per gram it does. But totals are what reach your account, and weight usually wins: a heavy 9ct curb chain beats a fine 22ct pendant most days of the week. To see roughly where a parcel sits before posting anything, the gold calculator gives an indicative figure by carat, and how we value gold sets out the full method with a worked example.
What does not affect the figure at all is condition. A snapped chain, a bent ring, a tarnished bangle and a wedding band worn thin are worth exactly what intact pieces of the same weight and purity are worth. Nothing survives refining except the metal.
Do not clean it before you send it
This is the most common way sellers reduce what they are paid, and it is always done with good intentions. On plain scrap gold, cleaning changes nothing either way. A wipe with a dry cloth to shift loose dust is fine; beyond that it is wasted effort, because the assay reads the metal regardless of how the piece looks.
On anything older it is worse than wasted. Antique silver carries a fine dark tone in its recesses that dealers and collectors expect to see, and polishes and silver dips strip it out along with some of the engraved detail. A cleaned Georgian salver is worth less than the same salver left alone, and the tone takes decades to come back. Coins are harsher still: one pass with a cloth can remove most of a coin's collector premium, and the damage stays visible under a loupe for the rest of its life. If a piece might be antique, do nothing at all and ask first. Our guide to cleaning silver before selling covers where the line sits.
The same logic covers home testing. Filing a notch, scratching a piece on a stone or dropping acid on it damages the item permanently and tells you less than a machine reading does. XRF testing is non-destructive and costs you nothing, so there is no reason to mark a piece to find out what it is.
Do not sort it, repair it, or throw any of it away
Most people pre-sort a drawer into a "worth sending" pile and a "probably rubbish" pile, and the second pile is where the losses happen. Single earrings, snapped clasps, jump rings, the tangled ball of fine chain at the bottom, a signet ring with the initials worn away: all of it is weighed and assayed, and all of it adds to the same total. Sorting by carat is equally unnecessary, because mixed parcels are separated by carat at assay and each carat is itemised on the offer at its own rate.
Repairs are the other quiet cost. Having a chain soldered or a clasp replaced before selling adds a bill you will not recover, and can lower the figure slightly if the repair uses a lower-carat solder. Send it broken. Sell scrap gold sets out what counts as scrap, and how to identify real gold at home is useful if you want a sense of the pile before it goes anywhere.
What is not paid as gold, so the figure does not surprise you
Being clear about this in advance is part of getting the most for a parcel, because it stops a fair offer being mistaken for a low one. Gemstones are not gold and their weight is not paid as gold; where stones are present they are removed and returned with the offer unless you ask otherwise. Base-metal clasps, spring rings and safety chains are excluded. Watch movements, glass and leather are excluded. Hollow bangles and rope chains sometimes hold a filler for rigidity, and that filler is not metal you own.
Plated, rolled-gold and gold-filled items are a separate matter again. They carry a surface layer measured in microns and hold almost no recoverable gold, so we say so plainly rather than take the parcel and wait to be asked. The difference between the three is explained in gold-filled, gold-plated and vermeil compared, and a magnet, a loupe and a look at wear points on the edges will usually tell you which you are holding before you post.
The pieces you should probably not sell us
Some things are worth more as objects than as metal, and the honest thing is to say so rather than melt them quietly. Signed designer jewellery, good Georgian and Victorian pieces with maker marks intact, rare-date sovereigns and proof sets, and named medals with a documented recipient all sit in specialist markets that can pay above gold content. If a parcel contains one of these it is flagged on the written offer with the reason, and the offer stands while you look into the alternative route. Nothing is melted before you have accepted.
Medals, memorial and mourning jewellery, and church or chapel silver deserve particular care. A medal group is usually worth more kept together and named than broken up, and mourning pieces often carry hair, inscriptions or dates that matter to someone in the family who has not been asked yet. Where provenance could be in question, church silver especially, GoldPaid asks about ownership as a matter of course and cannot buy items without clear ownership. If items have come out of an estate there is no hurry at all; probate and inheritance covers the sensible order of doing things.
One parcel, one written offer, and photographs before it goes
Splitting a lot between two buyers to see who pays more sounds prudent and usually is not. You halve the weight in each parcel, you spend a second trip to the Post Office, and you end up comparing two figures struck on different days at different market rates, which is not a comparison at all. Comparing written offers on the same parcel costs nothing; splitting the parcel does.
Before you pack anything, photograph it. A minute with a phone gives you your own record of what went into the box, which is useful for any compensation claim and more useful for your own peace of mind. Keep the Post Office receipt until the money has arrived. Then read the offer properly: measured weight, confirmed purity, the rate used, and the figure, itemised line by line. An offer without that working shown cannot be compared with anything, which is generally the point of not showing it.
How selling works here
- Start on WhatsApp. A couple of clear photos of your getting the most for your gold are enough for us to give you a quick indicative figure at no charge.
- Claim your free postage. We issue a prepaid, tracked, signed-for Royal Mail Special Delivery label, or a QR code for the Post Office.
- Post in your own time. Any padded envelope works, and there is no deadline to meet.
- Get a written valuation. Each item is weighed on calibrated scales and read by XRF spectrometry, and the itemised offer is sent to you in writing.
- Accept or walk away. Acceptance means payment by Faster Payments; declining means a free, fully tracked return.
Cover in transit
Your parcel is covered by Royal Mail Special Delivery, with cover available up to £2,500 depending on the cover level used. The prepaid label is Royal Mail Special Delivery Guaranteed: full tracking, a signature on delivery, arranged with that cover per parcel. Higher-value items are no problem, but please message us first so the cover and the packing approach match the value. Postage and insurance explains it fully.
If the offer is not for you
Then nothing happens except a free return. We send your items back by tracked, insured post at our cost, with no fee for declining and no follow-up. A valuation is only worth having if you can turn it down freely, so you can. See what happens if I decline the offer.
Payment, once you accept
When you say yes to the written offer, GoldPaid pays by Faster Payments bank transfer to your nominated account. You give those details only at the point you accept, never as a condition of getting an offer.
Why this is a calmer way to sell
Three things make GoldPaid a steadier route than a counter sale. You see a measured valuation in writing, not a verbal estimate. You decide at home, with nobody waiting. And if you decline, the return is free, tracked and insured, so obtaining the valuation costs you nothing.
Common questions
Do I need to sort my gold by carat before I send it?
No. Mixed parcels are separated by carat during assay and each carat is weighed and itemised on the written offer at its own rate, so sorting in advance changes nothing. It also risks you setting aside a piece that turns out to be gold.
Is it worth getting a broken chain repaired before I sell it?
No. A broken chain is worth exactly what the same chain intact is worth, because the offer is built on weight and purity rather than wearability. A repair adds a bill you will not get back, and a lower-carat solder can shave a little off the assay.
Will I get more if I split my jewellery between two buyers?
Rarely. You halve the weight in each parcel and end up comparing two offers struck on different days at different rates. If you want a comparison, ask two buyers for a written offer on the same parcel instead, which costs nothing and is directly comparable.
My rings have stones in them, do I lose the weight of the stones?
Stones are not gold, so their weight is not paid as gold. Where stones are present they are removed and returned to you with the offer unless you instruct otherwise. If a stone looks significant we will say so rather than value the setting alone.
How do I know whether something is worth more than its gold?
Send a photo first. Signed designer pieces, antique jewellery with maker marks, named medals and rare-date coins are the usual candidates. Anything in that category is flagged on the written offer with the reason, and the offer stands while you investigate a specialist route.