Published 2 June 2026
The maths behind 585
585 parts per thousand of pure gold by weight equals 14 carats in the 24-carat system (14 divided by 24 is roughly 0.583, rounded up to 585 by the hallmarking standard). The other 415 parts are partner metals. A typical 14ct yellow is around 58.5% gold, 30% silver, 11.5% copper, with the balance adjusted for colour and hardness.
Older Russian and Soviet jewellery uses a 583 standard, very close but not identical to modern 585. XRF testing shows the actual percentages on arrival.
Where you see 14ct in the UK
You will see it on US-made bridal sets, on German and Dutch retail jewellery, on Russian 583 vintage pieces, and on some modern UK independent designers who prefer the colour and hardness balance of 14ct.
Hardness and colour
14ct sits between 9ct and 18ct on both axes. It is harder than 18ct, so resists denting better. The colour is warmer than 9ct because there is more gold in the alloy, but cooler than 18ct because there is less. Many wearers find 14ct yellow a comfortable middle ground.
14ct white follows the same logic, blended with palladium or nickel for the white tone, often rhodium plated for the final finish.
Scrap yield
Recovered gold per gram of 14ct is meaningfully higher than 9ct because there is more gold in the alloy. The refining process is similar to 9ct and 18ct, well-established and efficient. The figure paid per gram tracks the live market.
Final offers depend on inspection, item weight, purity, hallmarks, stones, non-gold components, condition and the live precious-metal market.
Identifying 14ct
- Find the standard mark on the inside of the shank or the clasp.
- Look for "585" inside a shield punch, or "14k", "14kt" or "14K" on imported pieces.
- Check whether an assay office mark sits beside the standard. UK assay marks confirm independent testing.
- Older Russian and Soviet pieces may show 583 with a Cyrillic sponsor or hammer-and-sickle assay mark.
- When marks are missing or worn, post it for XRF testing.
Sending mixed-karat parcels
It is completely normal to send a parcel containing 9ct, 14ct and 18ct mixed together. The XRF screens each piece and the report shows the yield per item by standard. The bank transfer covers the total. If you decline, the full parcel comes back to you by free tracked return. Your parcel is insured up to £2,500 via Royal Mail Special Delivery. See how to sell gold by post.
A 14ct-specific close
If your jewellery came through American family or via mainland Europe, 14ct will be the dominant standard in the parcel. The UK postal-buyer route handles it the same way as any other karat. The 585 mark is not exotic, just less common in British high-street jewellery than 375 and 750. The XRF report puts it in writing, the bank transfer settles it, and that is the transaction.
Common questions
Is 585 the same as 14k?
Yes. 585 is the UK parts-per-thousand mark; 14k is the US karat designation for the same purity standard.
Is 583 the same as 585?
Very nearly. 583 is the Soviet 14ct standard and is two thousandths of pure gold less than modern 585. The yield difference per gram is small.
Is 14ct stronger than 18ct?
Generally yes. The higher base-metal content makes it harder and more dent-resistant.
Why is 14ct uncommon in UK high-street jewellery?
British retail traditionally settled on 9ct and 18ct as the two main offerings. 14ct was added to the legal standard list later.
Does 14ct pay more than 9ct at scrap?
Per gram, yes, because there is more recoverable gold in the alloy. Per piece, mass also matters; a heavy 9ct chain can outpay a light 14ct ring.
Can 14ct be hallmarked in the UK?
Yes. Since 1932 the UK has accepted 585 as a legal gold standard. Assay offices stamp it with the standard, sponsor and town marks.
Is American "14kt" jewellery valued the same as UK 585?
Yes. XRF confirms the alloy. The recovered yield is the same per gram at the same market level.
Does 14ct tarnish?
The gold content does not. The copper and silver content can dull over decades. Polishing restores the colour.